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Our Adventure Paiche Traffic poachers Sa Samiria National Reserve Pacaya

Most of you know that the Amazon River is by far the largest in the world, with more fresh water discharge than the next six largest rivers combined, but to appreciate the volume of water, you should join us going upstream Dawn in the Amazon.

Tucked up tight to the shore to the current slack in three quarter throttle, we watch the river life unfold as it has for centuries, the indigenous people living a life of living in harmony with their environment.

We see most people still live like their ancestors, in houses thatch roof built on stilts to stay above the flood, with no doors or windows, and often without walls, with strips of soft bark for flooring. The a machete, a bucket, and a few pots and pans is their only manufactured implements.

Men and women work together tending a patch of yucca, a small orchard of banana trees, with some lemon, lime, orange, papaya, mango, cashew, or chocolate, and other forest exotically delicious fruit that most of you probably never heard of let alone tasted, such as Zapote, mamey, ubilla, guaba, shimbillo, macambo, copoazu, and camu camu Caimito.

The typical mode transportation is still the dugout canoe, and almost always a fisherman is in sight working his net, or an individual or family canoeing. Women wash clothes the river, carry water in buckets in their houses, cook on open fires, and nurse babies. Children run up and down the bank waving and yelling at us.

My two favorite guides, and Edson Beto, hurry back to our guests report that our most important geographical landmark, the confluence of the Maranon and Ucayali Rivers is just around the bend. With camera in hand, moving everyone to the bow of the boat to record our passage at the beginning of the majestic Amazon River. Our course is the Ucayali fork, going left opposite the grain. The north bank of the Ucayali River is the southern boundary of Pacaya Samiria National Reserve (PSNR).

It is difficult to understand that the reserve is larger than some countries without cruising the distant, remote entrance, the Pacaya River. After miles of forest go by, mixed with rice planted in flood plains and planted peanuts in sandy soil to rice uphill, and we pass many boats and villages, the latter being more than five million acres beginning to get the definition.

When Dawn Amazon turns up the Pacaya River we enter one of the great wetland environments on earth. Within ten minutes it was like being in another world. We see giant Paiche opening near a lake. Paiche is the largest freshwater fish with scales. These are unusual for their size and because they have lungs. It is common to find these two meters long and weighing 125 kilos when they surface to breathe.

Edson Beto rush and 84-year-old 'Abuelita' Eileen, point to make sure he sees the cloud of parakeets, I guess there is a road, followed moments later by 8-10 large parrots. Before we left Iquitos Eileen told us he hoped to see parrots in the wild. He saw a life worth parrots along the Pacaya River.

When we came through This stretch of river a month ago we saw fifty slow motion, this time one; strange ebb and flow of animals. We know that birds and monkeys, easy to move to a new full of ripe fruit, but it's hard to imagine slow moving so slowly through the forest to a new source of food.

Hawks are hunting. Horned Screamers honk their loud, liquid call, mixed flock of Snowy and Great Egrets, cormorants, ducks, and herons, fly or fish near the boat as we glide upstream. But our unique adventure in PSNR is not about seeing the seven species of monkey, or a hundred species of birds, several dozen pink dolphins, or the Lizard, caimans, capybara, or sloth. We expect to observe them when we enter the reserve. Our adventure is the most interesting and dangerous monkey all, homo sapiens.

The ranger in charge of the second check point, Joseph, immediately informs us there is an emergency. Six poachers were spotted hidden paiche far from a lake twenty minutes upstream. With only four rangers in the area, he asked our help. Several years ago the reputations of all people in the village of Bretana was tarnished when paiche poachers from villages murdered three rangers who tried to confiscate their nets and canoes. Because of that crime, the village is considered dangerous and our boat has never stopped Bretana.

Joseph wants me to go with them, but with six guests on board I think my first responsibility is to them. Beto I ask if he would go to the rangers and take our hand-held VHF radio to maintain contact with Dawn on the Amazon. He reluctantly agreed, but was not pleased with the unexpected circumstances. He knew the story of the victims as well as the rangers do.

Jose has a plan. The poachers have set up camp beside a little stream connecting the largest lake in PSNR sa Yarina River. That stream is too small for the Amazon III Dawn so we tow boat The ranger's behind us, and when we come to the stream of rangers and Beto paddle up the stream to the camp. The poachers hear our boats go past and believe that they are safe.

we go to block the only possible escape route, and if necessary to ram their boats and prevent their escape however we can. Beto takes the hand-held radio to maintain communication and one of our cameras to record evidence.

Tells the story veto. "It is difficult to get through the stream because it is choked with aquatic plants We had to push through the grass pole water, and pushing the exit canoes and Jon boats. It took more than an hour to get to camp. I noticed buzzards pecking at a pile of fish heads and bodies.

"I saw the infractories, packing their gear to escape. Jose jumped out of the boat to tackle them. I heard conversations get louder and louder. The leaders said they were just trying to have a system to survive. Joseph argued that it is easy to survive without poaching. The other infractories whisper suspiciously while getting their machetes.

"The rest of the rangers saw the threat and break out of the boat as one of the poachers attacked with a machete Jose, aiming a killing blow the back of her neck. A man who shouted a warning and Jose spun around just in time to grab the wrist's attempted murderer.

"While they fought for the machete, the pirate screamed, 'Here we will kill each other. " Joseph wrestled the machete away and threw it into the water. The other rangers developed a circle around Joseph and the attempted resistance to ground lead.

"The other poachers are closing in threats to their machetes when I yell at the radio, 'OFFICINA, OFFICINA, base, base, we have a problem. Send to other rangers, send help, send help, inside. '

"Every Everyone heard the reply, 'Help is on way. Rangers on the way. Keep us informed, inside. 'That was all it took to get the fight outside poachers. They have laid down their machetes. That is when I radioed back, 'It's over. We are OK. Negotiations have begun, no reinforcements necessary, inside. '

"I do not understand the negotiations. The infractories always spoke as if they did nothing wrong, that we were wrong with them to bother. The people who spotted the infractories and knowledge of their location Jose works for the Rangers but living in the village.

The leaders shook his finger infractories him as he threatened, 'You are the person to let them come here! Our problem is your fault! Make sure I do not see you tomorrow … '

"They are allowed to keep their nets, canoes, spears, and half of paiche. They had eight big turtle and four medium size turtle in a bag. Joseph ordered them to release the turtle. They refused. They argued that because they are allowed to keep half paiche, they should be allowed to keep half of the turtles. After much arguing, all turtles were released.

"They are absolutely positive that they should be allowed to stay and fish as honest fishermen. They argued with Joseph for a time, but Jose is urgently as they leave. They refused to go.

"Jose explained that each ranger in reserve will be notified by radio of their work and they were followed and monitored the entire fifty kilometers to the entrance. They still argued so forcefully to stay that Joseph became suspicious and a search is conducted around the perimeter of the camp.

"One of the rangers discovered a freshly killed, fifty kilograms paiche covered with leaves. They had the nerve to argue that half the fish should also be them, but even Joseph's patience is running out, and he ordered them to leave immediately.

"As they started paddling downstream, leader turned and threatened, 'This is not the end it. It will not stay like this. 'Joseph answered with a threat of its own,' I believe you are fool enough to cause more problem now that every ranger knows your name, where your family will live, and what you have done. '"

It is quite possible Beto's quick thinking that our VHF radio to save the lives of all the rangers, as well as himself. The Rangers hit back to him with a big chunk of fresh paiche. He was kind enough to share with all on board Dawn on the Amazon III. We all agreed that paiche did the best we ever ate Ceviche, and no one ever ate better than fresh fish fillets with paiche fried in palm oil.

I was thinking about the men willing to kill or kill fish, and thinking about A system allowing a penalty attempted murderer go free. I remembered to close in May, Florida, around 35 years ago, was murdered three game wardens an old logging road throne. Many mothers of deer hunters in town is afraid that the murderer might be their children.

I have personally known poachers in Indiana. The poachers knew I was not motivated by survival. Most often it is wildness, a belief that the law does not apply to them, and in some cases, laziness. What is the easiest, fastest way to put food on the table? Should our paiche poachers are allowed to keep half their prey? They are their spears, nets, and canoes? These are difficult questions in mind as we continue our journey.

We were escorted upstream by a pod of pink river dolphins. They are protected by the legend and custom. The people of pink river dolphins believe has supernatural powers and this is the worst kind of luck to the damaged one. They will swim without fear of poachers.

In the third ranger station we learn that one has not visited since we signed the log book two months ago. This couple between the second and third ranger station seems to Dawn in the private reserve of Amazon's. It is impressive to have this opportunity to enjoy nature and experience is more wonderful still if you know how to value it.

Now, if only we could catch pirate cut the Big Leaf Mahogany …

About the Author

Bill Grimes provides custom cruises on the upper Amazon River and its tributaries from Iquitos, Peru. For details, visit Dawn on the Amazon Tours and Cruises at http://www.dawnontheamazon.com

Ray Mears / Jungle Machete Tips

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