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London Fashion Week Spring / Summer 2011
Winter is almost upon us so our thoughts turn to spring / summer as LFW SS11 begins. Although the warmed during the event as it went from cold crisp day ends with a blazing hot sun.
Early on Day One at the opening of the show BFC marquee on the catwalk was Paul Costelloe. Still sleepy, mad scream backstage put a smile on our face bleary eyes.
PAUL COSTELLOE
Titled 'A Long Day's Night', the collection is girly and described as 'Tinkerbell turned party girl'. Concise Biker jackets are thrown in to give a harder edge but was softened with the use of lighter colors and soft shiny fabric.
Skirt length to go to extremes – either in the short or Maxis. The short skirts are fun and flirty while Maxis is elegant and the sky – one of a transparent sensual fabrics with modesty prevailing only by pale pink blue waves and zigzag patterns.
Sugar color is pink, mint green, silver, pearls, grays and navy. The pinks generated abstract test navy and white, lightly graphic enhancement pattern with pale apricot, zigzagged with pale blue in waves and just graduated from a more aggressive light hue. The mint green is refreshing in a shiny jacquard fabric.
Textures come in metal and twill weaves, checks abstract patterns and graphics. Do big bow at the back of low backlines.
The short skirts swirled skater style, tulip cocooned legs and puff ball shape and art deco look with a pleated dropped waist style. The more interesting is the silver embossed puff ball dress tied at the bottom to form the shape of a big bow and jacquard dress mint green futuristic looking his tough three tiered skirt.
To keep the smile on our faces, we were treated to Costelloe's six children strutting down the catwalk (Even nervously) appropriate and booted.
Coco BUNMI
Kicking off the Vauxhall Fashion Scout Freemasons Hall Covent Garden is Bunmi Koko. To celebrate the beginning of the show someone one Ekpe danced in a bright red and yellow camouflage costume looking very much like a big pom pom. It is difficult to visualize collections of usurping it, but amazingly it did.
We hear not seen pretty pastels summer or girlie style. Monochrome colors are bold, bright reds and burnt ocher. Prints are Ekpe, leopard and tie dye designed to create the fiery flames. The style epitomizes confident feminine woman who knows what he wants and aim to get it. Titled 'matriarchy' collection of female empowerment while keeping in fusing cultures of Nigeria and the UK. It was power dressing with a wild twist – sharp tailoring, enhanced waists, strong shoulders and embellished with pom poms, beads and fringing. A eclectic mixture of fabrics and patterns are used together such as tweeds, organza and silk – all accessorised with ornate feathered masks.
Caroline Charles
With a mixed reaction to smooth it decently Lux collection inspired as you immediately thought 'mother of the bride' due to the length of skirts that are either knee or just below, along with accessories as hats, long gloves and kitten heels.
For day wear with sleeveless dresses in bright floral print silk 50's, polka dots and animal prints. Suits have full or pencil skirts and boxy jackets in white, black and yellow. All cinched with skinny leather belts of different colors. Black Capri pants and leggings provide a more youthful feeling worn with a monochrome tunic shirts check and a leopard print. Although unsure of the skull caps that looked suspiciously like rubber swimming hat.
For the night, dress shapes vary from shift dress skirt full volume. The color of soft golds, pearls, reds and black. LBDs are accessorised with diamond and pearl. Lots of sequins and beads.
This collection probably will not appeal to younger women but then again it is right on track for Ascot, Goodwood and Henley's where fashion rules is not broken if you want to get in.
Jena. Theo
The designer duo's collection (Jenny Holmes and Dimitris Theocharidis) with title 'Bandoliers' is inspired by the spirit of India with a touch of 19th century Victorian British colonialism.
Silk turban adorned models' heads, Indian handcrafted trim embellished skinny pants and flowing fabric while the fabric of bandoliers version features as low slung belt, cuffs, necklines and garters.
Structure creates contrasting denim shorts, jackets and dresses. Colors are either block pastel hues of blue iris and violet dusty pink or ecru raw. Ecru raw splashed hand-painted color is inspired by the Holi festival when the color pigment and herbs are thrown into a joyous celebration.
Stiletto platform shoes are adorned with raw painted gold leaf, as is the model's arms, ankles, stomach and even one nipple.
The Victorian influence comes in the guise of a Iris blue corseted mini dress with a soft side and bustle of a mini dress version of the crinoline cage.
Day 2 and another early morning start with a cold day. This time the location schedule edgier Off Old Sorting Office's industrial hall in the new Oxford Street
Bernard Chandran
Titled 'A Modern Romance' pastel hues Chandran keeps to a minimum preferring the richer tones of golds, greens, silver and black. His clean rectangular silhouettes are given texture by using a technique called Malay kerrawang, to create linear copies. Silk organza sleeveless tunic dresses show a military feel with large boxed floating flap pockets and sleeves, while the copy to reflect the Malaysian rainforest.
Metallics bring fluidity and a sci-fi feel with a bit of liquid silver and multicolored panels on dresses. Here we still see the boxed floating sleeve pockets and be more exaggerated. New fabrics used are silk and lurex shiny skin.
Evening wear in disguise as outlined embellished lapels, one at a very low neckline that kept falling out The model of the shoulder, the last element resembling the 1920's with its long straight Camel and Ostrich feathers big capelet.
Unfortunately for one of the model wing styled shoes with their high heels and killer very thin almost made him crash land.
Craig Lawrence
'Siren Mermaids' inspired by the siren of Greek mythology and the fantasy world of mermaids. Using cutting edge materials such as Japanese Kyototex metallic yarns in his methods knitwear, Lawrence allows the garments of glisten as if wet. color is peacock green, silver and white. Big long tube dresses cling to models like the mermaid tail with two tone silver vegetables and creating the illusion of scales of fish. The clothes are also turned inside out to show the web like textures and chain mail detailing that adds to the illusion. The great white strapless tube is adorned with loose long yarns like floating seaweed, while a great empire lines are covered with feather-like yarns to represent the sea foam. Very mystical.
Peddling BUKIA
Next stop is mason's Hall catch peddling Bukia's show. Titled 'Surati', the collection is dedicated to Georgian culture and religion, Bukia's native country. Color palette soft blues, pinks, grays and natural tones are taken from the Georgian building although red, midnight blue and black are also included. And strong souring shoulder stands out and upward the silhouettes.
Light crepe satin silk fabrics, cotton and contrasted well with the framework angular shoulders. While a top layer of organza, georgette and chiffon is used to create the illusion of looking out through the curtains of the window. Dress shapes keep rectangular silhouette building by either falling straight from the neckline or the drop waists. While the rows of windows are represented by placing strips of fabric crossing over each other, and the cutaway necklines.
The models wore shoes designed Bukia in what is becoming to be his signature heel – chunky and triangular.
Osman
Behind the big tent at Somerset House, Osman proved to be in demand with some unfortunate ticket holders to turn away.
These elements raw colors are tans, beiges and navy with a refreshing splash of pink honeysuckle, zingy yellow and apple green.
Woven and soft patent leathers come to prescribe sculpted beige shorts, skirts swing, bandeau and tunics. Cotton blended ottomans appear as crisp white summer dresses, lightweight gossamer silks come to life in vivid organic hues and dark blue denim will provide a tailored edge sculpted dresses
Hemlines take an interest in sewing minimalist asymmetry, gently folded ladder, very long tail coat and the color of the drapes with length.
Night and just enough time to squeeze in another show catwalk in front of Phrophetik after show party. This time the location is the Charing Cross hotel and show called 'A la Mode' was organized by La Genève North event. A LA mode is a one stop destination to snap up and discover some of the best independent international designers.
Omar Mansoor's collection is named after Terence Rattigan's 'After the Dance' – a play whose central character spent the year with a round of endless hedonism 20s. Mansoor's design reflects the glamor of it during Swarovskis embellishments and thread work on chiffons and silks draped in silver gray, dusty pink, wine and midnight blue. The length gowns ooze elegance and sophistication, while floaty knee length cocktail dresses have a look flirtier allowing you to dance the night away.
'Professional Suicide' Valery KOVALSKA's collection includes both mens and womenswear and has a contemporary edge punk rock. Various shades blues with a striking design of white lightening. Design woven shirts and waistcoats to add texture and loving the men's kilt style coat.
Belinda Liu's 'Marquis de Sade' collection takes its inspiration from the libertine lifestyle of the French aristocrat's and the form of his period. Here we see the modern version of the tree bloated bloomers mini skirts, corset style bodices, matching cuff bracelets and romantic lace hooded capelets. More wearable pieces include a tailored knee length dresses with matching capelets.
Zed-eye. An eclectic mix of patterns and textures. Shoulder ornamental feathers and waists, ruffles and peplums necklines, and a mesh of pearl beads around the neck. Floral patterned pencil skirt was matched with a striped blouse. Not all pieces are busy, elegant like jumpsuits in bold block color pink and blue patterned with a touch of trim.
Malam's' Lost Dolls "collection is a cute little edge – an assortment of lace, cotton, linen and silk. Black lace dress is adorned with a 2 tone metallic pink cowl neck collar and fingerless gloves, and a table feel that there is no word principal boy style waist coats worn girlie lace trimmed dresses and fairy wizard pointed helmet type.
Otherwise Kate Williams's color palette black and white you see touches of tans, yellows and aquas to digital prints. The collection is a capsule wardrobe, from black and white striped bikinis for the beach, tufted tasselled high waist shorts, jacquard trousers, white full skirted dress day, and digital printed floor length jersey dresses in pearl satin evening dress.
Day 3 and returned to Somerset House
Basso and Brooke
Bruno Basso The designer duo's, Christopher & Brooke, which collection is the 'bleeding-edge techno fusion meets dusty old hand written'.
Digital copies of handwritten notes by Da Vinci, Tolstoy, Balzac and mix with vintage florals and topography. Copy of suede, tweed and leather add texture smoother digital silks, cotton and gabardine.
Prim and proper necklines juxtapose with short flirty skirt length – long sleeve shirts buttoned at the top is worn with a short swing skater skirts and mini shift dresses they wore high necklines.
Black and white stripes graduating multi tonal look striking as peg leg pants and capes. The neutral color palette of earthy tones and pale dusty pastels provide a jolt in the electric blues and bright oranges of joining copies of either as panels or the main piece.
Ann-Sofie ATELJE BACK
After rushing to get to the porch Rooms then we can relax and enjoy the slower paced salon show of Ann-Sofie Back. The theme for the collection and porn sexualisation of society.
Not being at all seedy to sophisticated color palette of black and white. The look is simplistic with added twists: A stunning white dress is the appearance of being damp and clung to the model's body. Lol detailing is seen as simple bras worn plexi tops, large silver ring framing cutaway round backs and tear drop jewelry scales realized the fabric will drape.
Charlie MINDU LE
It is a touch of the Emperor's New Dress – made of models realize they are naked bar pink platform boots, a hat and wig allegedly the effect is to focus on the wig and the hat -? This uncertain worked. I think part of the audience concentrated on either the boots with eyes cast down and the rest do not look up as far as the model of the head.
Not all models of the naked, most decently covered in leopard prints or feather like Yeti.
See it does not work, I once commented on the wigs.
Day 4 and finally, time to look around the exhibition. Here are some highlights:
Tamara Fogle
Tamara Fogle makes bags out of the antique textile such as flour sack German, Hungarian grain sacks, military tents, sailcloth, Welsh and French bedding mattress ticking. The German flour sacks (date range 1830-1940's) are trimmed chocolate brown Italian leather. The writing which is different in each sack (and thus makes each unique bag) states the farmer's name.
During this period the new color of oranges and teals give a contemporary twist.
Jewellery LEJU
Leju use a special Amazonian seeds known as vegetable ivory as a sustainable alternative to elephant ivory. Rich colors are created by staining and dying the seeds in the natural plant extract and oils. Their new collection brings together intense colors and bold structure threaded together using leather, hemp, wax thread, stainless steel and copper wire. Great to embellish your plain LBDs.
FINSK
Titled 'salt' the new collection is inspired by ballet training and slow movement is represented by the shape of the shoe or fold of the leather. Muted tones of mint greens, grays and flesh pinks with brighter shades of yellow, purple and black in small capturing details of the dancer's movements. His wedges are made of wood with a nearly HIGH rocking chair construction.
LA Perla
La Perla collaborates with Jean Paul Gautier and brings his signature cone bra cups and corseted waists. Orange color is red, black and nude.
Piers Atkinson
Atkinson's hats are whacky as ever during this story floating between Adam & Eve, Sleeping Beauty and the Green Man. Main color palette is green (obviously) ranging from apple moss, creams, gold and pale pinks in fuchsias. Design is berets with suede or leather, straw mini-creations fezzes and silk florals.
Back the catwalk shows, this time with Vauxhall Fashion Scout Hall 'mason's
Romeo Pires
This mens and womenswear collection is a circus clown feel it with braces holding up a long wide low slung baggy pants and skirts with wide waist bands loose. Main color palette of crisp white and stone with touches of black and splashes of terracotta. Layering is key and copies of large skull is daring and dramatic.
Day 5 and the sun is shining and I'm back in big tent at Somerset House.
Jaeger
Inspiration for graphic simplicity and geometric lines are drawn from the pure color abstract artist Robyn Denny's blocked panels and fresh sporty interior features from the post-minimalist sculpture Rachel Whiteread.
Monochrome blazers and waistcoats displaced with contrasting lapels with shade in the form of sculptural shapes, simple tunic dresses and skirts leather is perforated and curved hemlines. Dresses 60's style geometric lines continue and monochrome look.
Softer lines and colors are brought by nude and buttermilk macramé woven suede and loose sweaters and bulky clothing.
Shaky colors also appeared to be abundant in marine blue, spearmint, emerald, gold, raspberry and navy. And photographic printing large monochrome peonies sa raspberry and bring a light feminine touch gazar and organza silk shift dresses, tunic tops and skirts
ANTIPODIUM
The weather is definitely getting into the swing of LFW as the sun shining through the porch window Antipodium's Room for 'hothouse' collection. This mens and Women's wear collections are inspired by ng Barbican hothouse and what could happen if revelers succumbed to their natural urges in a delicate banquet.
Prints are big limbs entwined in vegetables and grays shirts and shirt dresses, dense and green mulberry leaves, plus moths to sky blue blouses and mini skirts and loose dresses.
Skirt lengths vary from flirty 40's mini elegant mid calf length waffle knit body con dress and stretch denim pencil skirts.
Brown washed linen shorts with a frayed hem tailored look teamed with waffled knit jumper and sky blue blouse fool, and the soft chartreuse raincoat nylon gives the illusion of wet grass while the bottom reflecting transparent chartreuse dress hot humidity.
Other primary colors are dusty pale pink suit with a skinny pant leg and transparent floor length dress.
KRYSTOF STROZYNA
Lots of lace as high waist wide leg pants, big skirts and short dresses, but also as paneling on the body con dresses and short fitted lace leg warmers. Main color palette is muted beige point of neon violet, mint green and fuchsia pink with chiffon drapes, paneling, animals and tropical flowers of copy.
Day 6, move the girl, it is now the boys' turn
Christopher Shannon
Titled 'Never Go Anywhere Take' it refers to the wanderlust of the trip is yet to take Shannon.
The color of the light collection with lots of crisp white eye, pale sand and powder color of lemon, pink and blue. Camouflage prints are pale blues, grays, black and white. Coloured panel is to look for shirts, shorts, pants while nylon anoraks do color pockets. Rag tufting give texture and mesh tops, shorts and hats. Large light gray rucksacks add to the strong theme of holidays. The overall look is clean and you can not help wonder if this collection is more suited to a luxury holiday in the Caribbean than trekking in Nepal or in a dusty African safari.
JW Anderson
Titled 'The swallow and me', collection of approaches and looks at the journey of two people as they experiment and get lost in self-discovery and subsequently to fall out and consequences of it.
Layering is key to waistcoats, shirts, tees, knits and wrapped round waist, but the silhouette is slim and not baggy. Colors range from muted earthy tones of burnt orange, blues, pinks and black.
Lola can have to lock up their hand crocheted doilies as make an appearance here made providing tee shirts and knits. Admittedly not everyone is white as the main some dip dyed using neon colors to represent hallucinations. Also adding texture and a bit of bling Swarovski crystals embellishing tops and boots. Pattern replete with rolled up chinos and digital prints of photographer William Gedney grace the backs of the tops.
The show ended this trip with a soundtrack and a wide mass laser beam above the catwalk display resembling a dense clouded sky.
And this is the end of my trip LFW, next stop London Fashion Weekend.
Karen Grace – Personal Image Consultant for Tagabili & frumpy to funky.
Call for consultation on 07787 800 390
More More details via website: www.frumpytofunky.com
About the Author
frumpy to funky was established by Karen Grace, an affiliate member of the Federation of Image Consultants. Karen has studied Personal Styling at the London College of Fashion and received her professional training in one of the London’s leading Image Consultancy training centre. More details can be seen on http://www.frumpytofunky.com
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